I'm staying with a friend of mine in the most conservative area of the city, which makes walking down the street an interesting experience. No matter what I wear, I am a freak! Blonde, white woman by herself. Shock horror.
It was a relief to find the Journalists' Club as an island sanctuary in the middle of all this.
The club is a big, open, licensed restaurant with a troop of smiling Kurds serving the beer. You do still get stared at, but at least you can have a beer along with it here.